Note: These home repair tips are arranged in no particular order. Scroll through the list to find somehting that may apply to your particular job.
Troubleshooting is the process of locating and repairing mechanical breakdowns. Many times this is an intuitive process and sometimes we have to stop and think about it. Consider these basic steps when problem-solving. First identify the problem. Next determine proper operation. Proceed by listing logical reasons for malfunction. Systematically eliminate suspected causes. We often subconsciously jump to conclusions and miss the obvious.
Wind Caulk
It almost always pays to stop the wind from blowing in. If you are sitting watching the curtains move and the window is closed, some wind caulk is in order. Wind caulk, a.k.a. temporary caulk, is perfect for sealing up seldom-used windows, doors, and the like. This caulk is easily removed when no longer needed. It serves the same purpose in the summer, sealing around window air conditioning units.
Think Fast
What is the first thing to do if the toilet is about to overflow? Many people shut the lid. Of course running from the room is another option, but it won't stop the overflow either. Most toilet bowls will hold the contents of the tank without overflowing. The usual scenario involves one flush that doesn't go too well. Then (the mistake) a second flush overflows the bowl. A cool head and quick action can avert the disaster or at least avoid embarrassment. When an overflow seems imminent, lift the tank lid and close the flush valve by hand. This will stop water from entering the bowl. The flush valve is located in the bottom center of the tank, typically a hinged rubber flapper or stopper on a rod that seals the opening between the tank and the bowl. Watch the flushing action of the toilet with the tank lid off to become familiar with its workings so you will be ready when the time comes.
Stopped Toilets
Most often a toilet stops up when it consumes something it is not supposed to. If there are kids around it could be most anything. While it's nobody's idea of a good time, your hand is a pretty handy tool, but again use somebody else's if possible. First pull on a plastic garbage bag and go fishing for the blockage. There are many things that won't bend through the bowl trap so you may get lucky and be able to pull it out. If unsuccessful, try the plunger. A plunger will only work if the clog is in the trap. If you suspect that the stoppage is in the drain beyond the toilet, a closet auger may do the job. Don't use a regular drain snake as it may damage the bowl. Work gently with the closet auger. If things still aren't flushing, there are a couple more choices -- pull the toilet or call a plumber.
Painted Screws
A proper paint job dictates that the hardware be removed prior to painting. This becomes a task all its own when the screws have been painted a few times. The first inclination is to dig the paint out with a screw driver, but this never works out well and often results in scratches to woodwork, stripped-out screw heads and maybe injury to nearby fingers. Before you reach for a hammer, consider this method. If only a coat or two of paint is in the screw slot you may get it out with a utility knife or other sharp instrument. If there is considerable paint buildup, try using a heat gun to soften the paint and pick it out with a sharp instrument. Paint stripper may be used to soften the paint in lieu of the heat gun. Dental tools are great for picking out paint; occasionally they can be found in hardware stores.
Nail Strengths
Nails are among the most common of all fasteners, and there are many types to choose from. Despite all the differences in types of nails, they all work in the same way. A properly placed nail should pull two pieces of wood tightly together. A substantial amount of strength comes from the friction created between the two tight boards. Materials must fit tightly to achieve a strong connection. Poorly fitting connections place forces on the nails that they are not intended to carry. Take care to create tight-fitting joints for positive results.
In A Hurry
Home repairs and projects frequently require more time than the homeowner has in one chunk. This can be one of the most frustrating aspects of the project. Projects get stretched out, tasking the patience of spouses and other occupants. Looking for shortcuts and efficient methods can make the project less trying. Here is a tip for getting that painting project done faster -- use a fast-drying primer. Primers with alcohol bases dry very fast. When painting trim, oil base paint is still the best, but it dries slowly. Use a fast dry primer and a latex coat first. Finish with an oil base topcoat. This method allows for all three coats in one day if the project is not too big.
Column Collars
All sorts of sticky issues can complicate a basement refinishing project. One of these is the support column. These posts are always in the way. Sometimes they can be framed into a wall or incorporated in the staircase, but often enough they are just standing in the way. It's easy to make them more appealing. Paint them and leave them alone. Wallpaper or carpet them. Wrap them in drywall or trim. The latter is probably the most common option, but attaching materials to the column is the tricky part. While professionals have their tricks, the homeowner is often at a loss when it comes to the hard parts. Look around the home center for column collars -- these plastic collars are made to wrap around the column and provide a square surface for gluing or screwing materials to the column.
Grout Saw
Old tile jobs can look pretty bad sometimes, but that doesn't mean they should be counted out. Take a close look to determine if it is the tile or the grout. Check for broken tile or loose tile. If the tiles look good, regrouting may be all it takes to restore the job. Here's the hard part. Old grout can sometimes be cleaned and it is worth a try, but new grout might be needed. If the old grout has to come out, pick up a grout saw and get to work. This saw can be found at the usual places. It consists of a short, narrow blade with grit for teeth attached to a handle. It is tedious work, but the results may surprise you.
Got TP?
That's the temperature and pressure relief valve found on the water heater. Every water tank needs one and yours probably has one. The valve usually resides on top or on the side and near the top of the tank and is made out of brass. A water heater without one can be dangerous and presents an explosion hazard. Periodic testing is a good idea. Locate the valve and make sure there is a pipe connected to the discharge. The pipe should be directed such that if the valve discharges the hot water would not cause personal injury. Locate the small lever on the valve and pull it up. This will open and flush the valve. Pushing the lever back down will close the valve. This should be done two or three times a year. If the valve has not been flushed for a long while it may drip after testing. Open and close the valve again -- if the dripping continues, monitor it for a day or two. Replacement may be necessary. Check the discharge pipe from time to time. A valve that opens on its own signals either a water heater problem or a malfunctioning valve. If in doubt, call the plumber.
Dust Control
Many home repair projects create dust -- sometimes lots of dust. There are as many strategies for controlling dust as there are for making it. Here is one that is pretty easy and is pretty effective. If the heat has to be on, cover the return air grills with furnace filters and tape them in place. This will stop much of the dust before it can get into circulation. The same method should be used when a box fan is put in the window blowing out. Cover the inside of the fan with a furnace filter to save wear and tear on the fan motor and keep dust off the bushes. Remember to change the furnace filters after any dust-making project.
Lamp Cord
As the name implies, this is the wire used to bring electricity to plug in lighting fixtures. Any one can rewire a lamp by paying attention to the way it comes apart. When attaching the new lamp cord, look closely at the two wires. One side of the lamp cord will have smooth insulation and the other side will have ridges or a stripe running along its length. Connect the smooth side to the brass screw on the lamp and the ridged side to the silver screw on the fixture. When wiring the plug, follow the same rules. If the plug is not a screw type, the smooth side will attach to the narrow blade of the plug and the ridged side to the wide blade on the plug. Getting the wires right is called observing polarity, and it reduces the likelihood of shock.
Deck Posts
Common practice in deck construction is to sink the support posts in the ground and fill the holes with concrete. This practice is widely accepted but not the best way. The posts will eventually rot, treated or not. Make it part of your inspection routine to check the bottom of posts for decay. Poke them with an ice pick or awl to check for soundness. If replacement is required, do it right this time. It will be better and not cost much. Support the deck and remove the old post. If you have sound wood, cut the old post off a couple inches above the ground level. Next get loose debris out of the hole and fill it with new concrete, mounding it up a couple inches above the ground. Before the concrete sets, install an anchor bracket that will fit the post. Drop a plumb line to locate the bracket directly under the post. Allow the concrete to set for a day and then fit your old post to its new and better support.
Bathroom Safety
Having water and electricity in the same place has always been troublesome. Add a slick surface and what do you have? A bathroom with the potential for accident and injury. There are things that can make a bathroom a safer place. If your tub or shower lacks a slip-resistant surface, it is easy to add one. Hardware stores carry grip strips that can be applied to the tub or shower floor. Clean the tub, let it dry thoroughly, and then clean the surface receiving the strips with rubbing alcohol. Apply the strips to the spots that you are most likely to step or stand. Another easy fix is the electric receptacles. If they are not ground fault protected, they should be.
Sagging
Older homes may develop sags. Sagging floors and ceilings are common. Newcomers to home repair often try to put things right by jacking up the sagging offender and adding additional support. Most sags developed over years and aren't about to be fixed. If jacking is attempted, floor joists or rafters typically pull loose at the end and create a new problem. If the sag is structurally sound, try to live with it. If you can't live with it, the options include new support and then leveling out the floor or ceiling with long tapers or furring strips. These options are not technically difficult but they are not a weekend project either.
Door Security
Beefing up doors is a good and inexpensive way to improve home security. Start by removing the trim (casing) around the inside of the door. Doorframes are hung between rough framing and are never a snug fit. Some filler or shims were used initially to secure the frame, but more will only make things stronger. Block or shim behind all hinges and around the latch and deadbolt strike plates. Make things snug but don't move the doorframe. While you are in there, fill any spaces left with an expanding foam to improve airtightness. Put the casing back using finish nails. Finally replace the hinge and strike plate screws with longer versions of the same screws -- the new ones should penetrate the framing by at least an inch.
Child-Proofing
If kids are in the picture at your house, you need to consider a number of things to keep them safe. Electrical outlets need to be capped with plastic plugs. Sharp corners on everything need to be padded. Stairs need to be gated. Cabinets need to be secured. Don't forget the windows -- they must be secured to prevent falls. Choking hazards must be considered, such as the pull cords on the blinds. This list is by no means complete, and your particular environment may pose different challenges. Here's one handy tip. To secure the refrigerator, use self-sticking hook-and-loop (Velcro) positioned above their reach. For more information along these lines, try the Consumer Product Safety Commission.
Microwave Door Fix
Common fixes to microwave ovens are straightforward. If the oven refuses to work at all, the first thing to check is the door interlock switch. This switch (or switches) ensures that the door is closed before the oven can operate. If you are up to it, unplug the microwave and remove the cover. The first step once under the hood is to discharge the capacitor. The capacitor is an electrical device that stores electrical energy. It is several inches long, more or less oval in shape, and has a metal jacket and two wires sticking out one end. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the two terminals with a screwdriver with an insulated handle. Keep your fingers on the insulation! Locate the switch or switches located at the door latch or around the door. They can be easily checked with a multimeter or continuity tester.
Foundation Cracks
Cracks in foundations and brick or block walls are disconcerting at best and dangerous at worst. It is the nature of concrete to shrink and crack -- this is the reason sidewalks are divided into sections. The manmade grooves provide a place for the natural crack to develop. Settling is to be expected in a structure, and often it will be revealed by cracks in masonry surfaces. Cracks that run more or less vertical and are not more than 1/8 inch wide are probably not cause for alarm. Cracks that are horizontal, have misaligned edges, or that appear to have movement may be cause for concern. Call a professional if in doubt. Monitoring a crack for movement can be done by marking the ends of the crack and making several alignment marks across the crack. Periodically check the marks. Cracks that are lengthening or becoming misaligned may be cause for concern.
Tighten Up
As energy bills go up, those weatherization projects move up the priority list. It's still not time to build that windmill, but some things can be done that will start paying for themselves right away. Most folks think of insulation as the primary ingredient in keeping the cold out. Consider a perfectly insulated building with the door left open. If we could gather up all the cracks and crannies in the house and get them in one place, they could easily add up to a pretty big hole, or even a wide-open door. The very first thing to do is tighten up the structure. Stop the cold from blowing in past the insulation. Weatherstrip doors and windows. Home centers carry a seemingly endless supply of appropriate products. Think about the places where pipes and wires enter the structure -- foams are best here. What about the attic or basement? Seal up any penetrations in the conditioned (heated or cooled) space. A word of caution when working around appliance flues -- often they require a free air space when they penetrate a surface. Consult a professional if in doubt.
Tool Tip
Any home mechanic knows the importance of tools. The job just can't be done without them. Often a repair becomes difficult just because things are tough to get at. Here are a couple tools that might make a tough job easier. The offset screwdriver can be the answer when the direct approach is not possible. This tool, which resembles a stretched-out letter Z, can get around obstacles and corners. Another good one resembles a screwdriver with a flexible shaft. This tool will accommodate varied sockets and is great for turning nuts and hex head screws that are hard to reach.
Surge Suppression
Surge suppressors help protect electronic equipment from unexpected power surges caused by lightning or power supply malfunctions. Computers, TVs, VCRs and the like are particularly susceptible to power surges. While surge protection is available in many forms and at many prices, the costliest option can be no surge protection at all. Be wary of plug strips that appear to be surge protectors -- not all are. A reset button does not guarantee protection. When shopping for a surge protector, consider clamping voltage and reaction time. Lower clamping and faster reaction are better. Consider a whole-house surge arrestor. These devices mount in the breaker panel and protect all the circuits. Homeowners with a good understanding of residential wiring can tackle the job. Call an electrician if you're not sure what you're doing.
Labels
Many times home repairs entail taking things apart or disconnecting wires. Keeping track of parts and places can be half the job. Labeling is the answer, and there are many ways to do it. If you need a long-lasting label, try using reinforced packing tape. In the case of a wire, mark the tape on the sticky side and then wrap it around the wire to create a flag with the label sealed by the overlapping tape. Reading the label through the tape is no problem.
Cable Staples
Running a new circuit or extending an existing one is a common task that can be undertaken by a homeowner with average skills and a basic understanding of electricity. Securing the wires is just as important as getting the connections right. While most boxes provide a means of cable attachment, additional wire support is required. Use cable staples to secure the wires as they run from box to box or panel to box. Cables should be fastened within 12 inches of a metallic box and within 8 inches of a nonmetallic box and at least every 4 1/2 feet after that. Cables need not be secured where they run through a framing member. Drive staples until snug to avoid damage to the wire. Staples come in plain wire and insulated versions.
Recessed Lights
Recessed lights or cans, those recessed fixtures that fit flush to the ceiling, are popular and offer a variety of lighting effects. They can be big energy wasters, too, acting as little chimneys to the unconditioned space above them. If you are considering this type of lighting, request a fixture that can be in direct contact with insulation. Fixtures that provide airtight installation are also available. Both types of fixtures will pay for themselves in energy savings. If you have older fixtures and they are accessible from above, boxes built from foam board can be fitted over them to stop the draft. Be sure to allow adequate distance between the box and the fixture so as not to create a fire hazard. Contact the fixture manufacturer for specifics.
Humidifiers
While too much humidity causes lots of problems, not enough makes life uncomfortable as well. One solution is a humidifier. Folks with forced air heating systems can and maybe should have a humidifier installed as part of the heating system. Regardless of what type you have or are considering, the key is maintenance. Here is the test. If you don't know where your air filter is or you don't regularly change your air filter, you shouldn't have a humidifier. These devices basically evaporate water for a living and mineral deposits continuously build up. Humidifiers require regular maintenance. If you proceed, be sure to install an inline water filter. This will lessen the deposits in the humidifier, but the filter itself must be replaced regularly!
High Efficiency Furnaces
If you have a high efficiency furnace (90+) it achieves this efficiency by condensing flue gasses and extracting their heat. A by-product of the process is water. Condensing furnaces produce water. Just like with central air-conditioning, this condensate must be removed from the house. If you have central air conditioning the same condensate line will serve the furnace. Make sure the condensate goes to a drain. Periodically check to see that the condensate line is not blocked. If the line goes to a condensate pump, make sure it cycles properly and the condensate is making it to a drain.
Ghost Doors
Sometimes doors swing shut by themselves. While the problem might be attributed to ghosts, it probably has more to do with house settling. As houses settle into a comfortable position, things such as doorjambs can get out of plumb (straight up and down), causing doors to swing to one position or another. If this is a problem and a doorstop will not do, try removing a hinge pin and bending it slightly. Accomplish this by laying the pin on a solid surface and hitting it with a hammer. Drive the pin back into the hinge and see if this doesn't slow the ghost -- I mean door -- down. It may be necessary to slightly bend the other hinge pin as well.
Icy Windows
If you are experiencing ice or condensation on the inside of your windows, the problem isn't the weather -- it's the humidity. While the humidity is typically low in the winter, that is not always the case inside the house. As houses become more energy efficient they become tighter in terms of air leakage. The moisture generated by bathing, cooking, and breathing can raise the humidity in the house to unacceptable levels. If you have condensation on the inside of your windows, it is a sign of too much humidity. Humidity levels should be kept at 35-40%. If they are higher in your house, turn down the humidifier and be sure to run the exhaust fans when bathing or cooking. High humidity levels can contribute to an unhealthy environment.
Hand Drill
While the electric drill remains the most common power tool, there are times when the old-fashioned way is just faster. Hand drills come in several varieties. The push drill, the hand drill, and the brace and bit are all forerunners of the electric drill. The brace and bit was the main drilling tool in construction and had to be cranked to work. The hand drill resembles an eggbeater and was more of a cabinet-making tool. The push drill has a spiral shank that rotates when pushed. All these tools are still available but not commonly used. Of the three, the push drill probably makes the most sense around the house. It is inexpensive and comes with an assortment of small bits. When an occasional small hole is needed, the push drill will get it done before the electric drill gets plugged in.
Lighting Terms
If you have been to the store to buy light bulbs lately, you may have noticed that the plain old light bulb is in the minority. Compact fluorescent and halogen bulbs are now common. The new compact fluorescents are longer lasting and produce more light than their incandescent counterparts. The same applies for the halogen bulbs and they become very hot so be cardful of the type of fixture you use them in. As consumers, we are used to shopping for a particular wattage bulb, but that doesn't apply to the new super-efficient bulbs. Look for the number of lumens a bulb provides. A lumen is a measure of light; a watt is a measure of electricity. More lumens and fewer watts means more energy efficiency. Fluorescent and halogen bulbs tend to produce a whiter light than incandescents and may be better in kitchens and bathrooms than living rooms.
Wire ID
When working on the wiring, knowing which wire is which is very helpful. In the simplest situation, a receptacle with one cable entering the box, the black wire (hot) brings the current from the service panel and the white wire (neutral) is the return path for the current. The green or bare copper wire is always the ground. In a box with two cables, one is supplying the current and the other cable is taking the current on to another device. To determine which cable is coming from the service panel, turn off the power and disconnect one black wire from the receptacle -- make sure it is not touching anything -- and turn the power back on. One black wire will be hot and the other one will not. Use a tester to determine which wire is hot. That one is the feed (coming from the panel). Turn the power back off and reconnect the wire to the receptacle. Wrapping black tape around the receptacle to cover the screw terminals is a nice touch. As always, if you are not sure about electricity, get qualified help.
Shower Leaks
Here is a leak that is not really a plumbing leak. Water that runs down the shower wall can find its way around the faucet handles and spout and appear as a leak in the basement or floor below the shower. To fix this non-leak, remove the handles and escutcheons (trim) and seal the space between the valve stems and the tile with plumbers putty or silicone. Replace the escutcheons and handles. The same sealing should be done to the spout. If the escutcheons are reluctant, use a strap wrench instead of pliers to save their chrome finish.
Interior Painting
Winter weather makes it a good time for interior painting. Here are a few tips that might make the work go better. Use roller pan liners to avoid having to clean out the pan when changing colors or stopping for the day. If you don't want to run out to get liners, use tinfoil. When taking a break, wrap brushes in foil or put them in a baggie and they won't dry out. If you're stopping for more than a few hours, put them in the freezer. Covering a roller pan with newspaper will keep the roller and paint fresh while you eat lunch. When finished with the job, brushes and rollers must be cleaned well. A good brush should last a homeowner for years. Consider buying a brush and roller spinner. This tool makes cleaning up much easier. To maintain the shape of a brush, wrap it in paper when finished cleaning. Remember if you are working with solvent-based paints, remove all soiled rags from the house as they present a fire hazard.
Frozen Pipes
We usually know when pipes are frozen because the water quits running. Knowing if the pipes are broken is not always so simple. A broken pipe will usually not leak until things thaw out. The danger in this is that pipes might thaw when nobody is around. The damage caused by leaking pipes can be disastrous. Make sure things are thawed before leaving a building unattended. If you can't stay, make sure all water is shut off. Keep an assortment of pipe clamps on hand in the event of a leak -- leaks often wait until the stores are all closed.
Garage Safety
Be sure to pull the car out of the garage to warm it up. Breathing any amount of combustion gases is very dangerous. If the garage is attached to the house, the exhaust generated just from pulling out of or into the garage can pose a threat. Air pressure differentials between the house and the garage can pull car exhaust into the house. An inexpensive exhaust fan installed in the garage is a great safety project. Hook the fan up to a motion sensing switch and timer so that it will automatically come on when the car comes in or out of the garage.
Glue Clean-Up
Woodworking and home repair projects frequently require gluing. Glue squeeze-out is common and can ruin a project if it is not addressed. Removing excess glue is easiest when the glue is still wet. A damp rag will usually do the job. Inside corners are tough to get to sometimes -- try a straw with a crease in its end to scoop the excess glue out of the corner. Projects that will be stained need special care. Taping the edges of glue joints before gluing will keep squeeze-out off the wood altogether.
Sash Repair
Old window sashes typically work loose at the joint between the vertical piece (style) and the horizontal piece (rail) -- most often at the bottom of the bottom sash. It is tempting to drive a nail as a remedy, but this usually makes matters worse. The next solution is to apply an angle bracket as a band-aid. This method is sometimes effective, but it looks awkward at best. For a more permanent fix, clean out any loose paint or putty, draw the joint together with clamps or wedges, and drill a couple of 3/8" holes through the loose corner of the sash. Apply waterproof glue to the joint and the holes and drive 3/8" dowels into the holes. After the glue has dried, sand the ends of the dowels flush with the sash and repaint.
Perfect C Clamp
That is a PVC clamp. Slicing a piece of PVC pipe lengthwise turns it into a C clamp. Different lengths and diameters of pipe offer a wide selection of clamps. These clamps are most useful when light-duty clamping is required. They can substitute for a spring clamp in many situations.
Nominal Voltage
As with other terms and sizes in construction materials, the size isn't always the size. The term "nominal" means in name only. Nominal sizes are not actual sizes. When reading nameplates on power tools or electrical appliances, a voltage will be specified; typically 110, 115, or 120 volts. These are nominal voltages. Actual voltage varies from time to time and in different parts of the country between the 110- and 120-volt range and makes no difference to the tool or appliance.
Drywall Repair
Most home mechanics are familiar with drywall and plaster repair. Joints and cracks are best fixed with either paper or mesh tape that adds strength to the repair. When larger repairs are necessary, multiple strips of tape can be used, but this gets awkward and builds up the wall too much. Home Centers are selling drywall repair kits that contain a larger mesh patch. For even bigger repairs, head over to the screen isle and buy fiberglass screening in the desired width and length. Use it just like mesh tape.
Critical Light
The term critical light often refers to the way light hits a surface. A table lamp sitting next to the wall shines a critical light up the wall. A flashlight held next to the wall with the light directed along the wall casts a critical light. A critical light will show any imperfections in the wall surface. A drywall finish job typically looks best before painting when the surface is very flat. Glossy paint and the wrong lighting will bring out the smallest imperfection. Sanding drywall with a critical light will guarantee no surprises when the lights come on.
Gutter Pump
On a recent foray to the home center I came across a promising item, the "Gutter Pump." This small plastic device fits in the downspout end of a standard hung gutter and allows the gutter to drain even when it's full of leaves. Of course, no one lets leaves accumulate in the gutter, right? But in the event you were out of the country on your regularly scheduled gutter-cleaning day, this item might be of some use.
Score One
Wood by its very nature tends to splinter when cut or drilled. This is especially evident when cutting across the grain. In rough carpentry, splintering is not much of an issue, but for finish work it can mean a botched job. Several strategies are commonly used to avoid splintering. When using a circular saw or jig saw, cutting from the backside of the wood will prevent splintering because these saws cut in an upward direction. If cutting from the back is not possible or if both sides need to be finished, scoring the face of one or both sides of the wood will prevent splintering. Use a straightedge and a sharp utility knife to score the cut line. When cutting, stay on the waste side of the scored line.
Balancing Act
If your overhead garage door seems a little grumpy, it might be out of balance. Over time the springs that assist the opening of the door can stretch, and the door becomes hard to open or comes down too fast. Open the door and find its balance point, the spot where the door stays open by itself. At the balance point, the distance between the bottom of the door and the garage floor should be between three and four feet. If the door will not stay open at the balance point, the springs may need tightening. If your door has one spring that runs parallel with the top edge of the door, only proceed if you have manufacturer's instructions and understand them completely. If your door has springs on each side of the top rails, adjusting them is straightforward. Prop the door in the open position and take some slack out of the cable that attaches to one end of the spring. This operation usually involves loosening a clamp or unknotting one end of the cable.
Sisters
The term "sister" is used in construction to describe the process of securing a structural member along the side of an existing structural member. This is a common fix in residential construction when we come upon a stud, joist, or rafter that is not doing its job. A floor joist may over time develop a crack or a roof rafter may be broken from a fallen tree. In either case, the structural member is not carrying its weight. Replacing the damaged piece is usually not necessary or practical. Start by jacking the damaged member back in place, and then add a temporary support. Now sister a new member alongside the existing one and fasten them together using nails, screws, or bolts. The length should be as long as practical.
Strike Right
When installing a deadbolt or latch set, aligning the bolt or latch with the hole in the jamb can be tricky. If the hole and the bolt don't line up, the door will not shut tightly or the latch won't latch at all. Next time you are installing a deadbolt, try this. Before you drill the hole in the jamb, install the bolt in the door and apply lipstick to the end surface of the bolt -- you pick the color. Shut the door and them turn the bolt. The lipstick will be transferred to the jamb exactly where the hole needs to be.
Where's the Pilot?
Many homes built in the last ten years have mid- to high-efficiency gas furnaces. There are major differences between these new furnaces and the less efficient standard furnaces of the past. One major difference is no pilot light. If you open up the furnace to check the pilot light, you won't find it. The pilot's replacement is the hot-surface igniter or the spark igniter. The igniters only come on when the main burner needs to light, then they turn themselves off. If everything else seems to be working properly but the heat won't come on, it may be the igniter. Locate the igniter. It can be found where the pilot used to be and has two wires connected to it. Disconnect the igniter and test its resistance with an ohmmeter. A reading between 50 and 100 ohms is normal. If your reading is significantly off, replace the igniter.
Talking Tape
Did you ever take a measurement, walk over to the saw, and not have a clue what the measurement was? This is especially frustrating if you climb down the ladder to do it. Sure, you can write down the measurement -- this is why you see craftspeople walking around the job with small pieces of wood. A new tape measure might be what you need, one that has a built in voice recorder. Tell the tape the measurement, climb down the ladder, and it will tell it back to you. These tapes can be found at most home centers and are not unreasonably prices.
Duct Boost
Home remodeling frequently involves closing in a porch or making living space out of some other unfinished area. Supplying heat to the new space can be tricky, and it is not uncommon for the new space to be less than ideal when it comes to warmth. Typically the existing heating equipment is just extended to the new space by adding a duct or extending one near by. Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn't. If you have a space that suffers from lack of heat in spite of the ductwork, try an in-line duct fan. These booster fans mount in the duct and give the air some help getting where it is going. It is a relatively inexpensive fix that can be accomplished with average skills. If you suspect some other problem, consult an HVAC professional.
Cartridge Fuses
Cartridge fuses are not as common as they once were, but there are still plenty of them around in older houses. These fuses resemble cardboard tubes with metal end caps. They are commonly about the diameter of a finger and have an amperage rating like any other fuse. The problem with cartridge fuses is that they don't look different when they are blown. Circuit breakers trip and screw type fuses burn out, and that can be easily confirmed by looking at them. To test a cartridge fuse in place, any simple voltage tester will do. Place one end of the voltage tester to the hot side of the fuse and the other end of the tester to ground and the tester should indicate voltage present. Now move the test lead from the hot side to the other side of the fuse while maintaining contact with the ground. If the tester indicates voltage, the fuse is good. If no voltage is indicated, the fuse is bad. If you are uncomfortable with working in the panel, remove the fuse and test it with a continuity tester. If there is continuity the fuse is good. If not, the fuse is bad.
The Other Drains
Besides the usual drains around the house, there are other drains that may need periodic attention. Sink and tub drains are not the only ones. Check around the basement for a floor drain. Drains have traps that hold water, thus keeping sewer gas out of the house. If drains are seldom used the water can evaporate from the trap and sewer gas can come into the house. Solution -- pour water down the drain periodically. Central air conditioners have drains in the form of a pipe that drains away condensate when the units are running. Make sure the condensate lines are open and not blocked. Solution -- observe the flow when the AC is on. Clean condensation lines with air pressure or a small sewer snake. What about the refrigerator? Frost-free refrigerators have a thaw cycle, and the drain in the bottom of the refrigerator leads to a pan under the refrigerator where the water evaporates. Make sure the line from the drain to the pan is not obstructed. Clean the line with a pipe cleaner or a baster filled with a mild soapy solution.
Laminate Repair
Plastic laminate, often referred to by the brand name Formica, is by far the most common countertop material. The plastic is glued to a wood substrate, and together they provide a long-lasting, durable work surface. Problems do arise occasionally, the most common being laminate and substrate separation. This happens at corners and edges and can be easily fixed if the laminate is not damaged. First try to reactivate the original glue by heating it with a cool iron and then pressing the laminate back in place. If this does not work, carefully lift the loose laminate and scrape away as much of the old glue as possible. Now apply carpenter's wood glue between the plastic and wood, push the laminate back in place, and clamp or apply pressure until the glue dries.
Drain Pans
Products, materials, and methods used in new construction often arrive on the remodel and repair scene rather slowly. Keeping up with innovations is more than can be expected from most homeowners. Drain pans have been around a while and need to be incorporated into existing homes. Drain pans go under the clothes washer and water heater and contain water that may leak from the appliance. Drain pans are a must if the laundry is any place other than the basement. The damage from a leak can easily cost more than a new washer or water tank. When the time comes around to replace the water heater or washing machine, consider the drain pan as part of the replacement.
Fireplace Back Draft
Cozy times in front of the fireplace are here, unless your fireplace has back drafting problems. Back drafting occurs when smoke can't get up the chimney and it comes into the room. Let's assume the flue and damper are open and that critters aren't up there. Typically back drafting occurs because of a lack of make-up air -- i.e. air to replace the air that is being drawn up the chimney when burning a fire. If opening a window solves the problem, your fireplace needs more make-up air. Fireplace doors can be used to control the amount of air going up the chimney as well. A word of caution -- if you have recently "tightened up" the house by insulating and caulking, make sure that make up air is not being drawn down the flue for the water heater or furnace!
Garage Door Opener
Garage door openers are great and work reliably with little or no complaint, but like everything they sometimes need maintenance. If your door is not opening all the way anymore, it can easily be adjusted to get things back in order. Door openers that use a long screw that turns to open the door typically have a limit adjustment located on the opener housing. Adjusting a screw will cause the door to open farther or close tighter. Doors that operate by means of a chain often have stops on the chain itself. These stops come around and flip a switch to stop the opener operation as the door opens or closes. Moving the stops along the chain make the adjustment. As always, refer to the owner's manual that came with the door opener for details.
Select Your Pallet
Shipping pallets are a familiar sight to most and are found just about everywhere these days. Lots of folks find pallets useful around the house or garage. If your basement is occasionally damp, storing items on a pallet allows air to circulate and keeps things dry. Building supplies commonly need to be kept in a dry location. A pallet on the garage floor is a great place to store cement products. If your work area has a concrete floor, several pallets covered with plywood make a much more forgiving surface to stand on. Don't overlook the pallet as a source of wood. Many are made of oak and can provide materials for small wood projects.
Wire Ratings
Many homeowners are comfortable tackling electrical projects. Adding a receptacle or light fixture by extending an existing circuit is easy enough if you have a basic understanding of residential wiring. A word of caution when taking on wiring projects -- be sure you know what size breaker or fuse protects the circuit and be sure and use wire rated accordingly. Usually 14 AWG wire is used with a 15-amp breaker and 12 AWG wire is used with a 20-amp breaker. When purchasing wire, look for a brand that plainly marks wire size on the cable: To those who don't work with wire regularly, it may be hard to distinguish #12 from #14 by looking at the wire itself. When there's any doubt, always call an electrician.
Tread Trick
Exterior wood steps can become slippery under many weather conditions. There are several paths to better traction. Home centers and hardware stores stock various types of slip-resistant tread products that can be applied to the top of the step. Most paint stores will mix porch and deck paint that contains grit, providing better traction to painted steps. Here is an easy and inexpensive fix that works when elegance is not an issue. Nail or glue a shingle or piece of rolled roofing to the top of each step. The roofing granules provide great slip resistance and hold up surprisingly well.
Tool Maintenance
Tools with wooden handles, particularly outdoor tools like shovels, can last a lifetime if you take care of them. It's not uncommon to leave tools out in the weather after use, but it shortens their lives. Periodically clean these tools and wipe them down with raw linseed oil. Make sure to cover the whole tool. The oil soaks into and conditions the wood and protects the metal from rust. Be sure to store or dispose of oily rags in a responsible manner -- they can be a fire hazard.
Leaky Sink
It wouldn't be unusual to find things a little wet under the kitchen sink someday. There are plenty of suspects down there. If you find water dripping off the bottom of the trap, don't automatically stop looking -- get the flashlight and follow the leak. If you get all the way up to the sink, you have a leaky strainer basket (most people would call it the drain). The putty between the top flange of the strainer and the sink most likely has dried out and cracked. Loosen the nut at the bottom of the strainer, disconnecting it from the drain. Now loosen the big ring-like nut at the top of the strainer. There will be the nut, a paper washer, and a rubber washer. The strainer can be pushed up through the sink hole. Clean away all the old putty, roll out some new plumbers putty about the diameter of a pencil, and wrap it around the strainer just under the top flange. Press the strainer back into the sink hole (the putty will squeeze out) and reassemble things under the sink.
Doorbell Repair
The doorbell is a low-voltage electrical device. It offers an opportunity for the electrically fearful to try a repair with little chance of harm. Several problems can cause a doorbell to malfunction. Let's look at one of the common ones, a bad button. The button is often exposed to the elements and can be subject to corrosion. The doorbell button is simply a switch. When the button is pushed, it completes the circuit and rings the bell. Corrosion on the contacts may keep the current from reaching the bell. To troubleshoot a bad switch, first loosen it from the house and gently pull the wires out far enough to get to the screw terminals on the back. Put each end of a jumper wire on each screw terminal. If the doorbell rings, the switch is bad. Loosen the screw terminals and replace the button.
Electrical Mistake
Homeowners with a basic understanding of residential wiring can and do make electrical repairs all the time. Some common mistakes go undetected because the fix seems to work but not always safely. One such mistake involves replacing old two-prong receptacles with newer three-prong receptacles. When the house was wired with two-prong receptacles, there was no ground conductor in the system. Three-prong receptacles are more convenient because you can plug grounded devices into them. The hazard exists because they still are not grounded -- they only appear to be. The code only allows for replacement of two-prong receptacles with two-prong receptacles or ground fault receptacles. Remember, electricity can kill. If you're not absolutely sure of what you're doing, don't do it. Call an electrician.
Fluorescent Troubles
Fluorescent lights often provide years of trouble-free service, but eventually they go bad. A burned-out tube isn't always the problem. If the light is dim or flickering, chances are the tube is nearing the end of its life. Typically these tubes will be black at one end. Replacing the tube will probably fix the light. If the ends of the tube aren't black, there may be another problem. Wiggle the tube to detect a bad contact in the socket. If the tube is flickering, try turning it end for end in the fixture. If the problem persists, the starter may be to blame. Remove the tube and find the starter near one end of the fixture near the socket. The starter is removed by turning it counterclockwise. Starters are available almost everywhere.
Scratch & Dent
Whether remodeling the kitchen or just thinking about new appliances, their price typically represents a sizable piece to the financial pie. Consider scratch-and-dent appliances. All manufacturers have them, and they can be real bargains. Typically they are new and carry new warranties. A scratch or dent that is next to a cabinet or wall might not be an issue if it saves a couple hundred dollars. Finding these appliances is not hard once you start looking in the right places. Ask major retailers about them. Sears has outlets around the country. The question looms, if an appliance has a dent and it can't be seen, does it really have a dent?
Emergencies
When starting home repairs, spend some time considering what might go wrong. There are always hazards involved in any task or project. Be prepared in the event that things don't go right. When sweating copper pipes, the water to the house might be off. What if a fire starts? When working alone, think about who will come to help if an accident happens. You might keep a cell phone handy. In the event of any type of emergency, the first thing to do is communicate. Call for help or let others know there is a problem. Injury is a possibility any time we work with tools, but with proper training and a little forethought, you can expect success in your project.
Plumbing Vents
Plumbing vents are an integral part of the plumbing system in any structure. Drains are connected to air vents to facilitate water going down the drain. As the water goes down the drain, air is pulled in the vent rather than through the fixture trap. Eventually the vent goes through the roof of the house. Vents also pass sewer gas. That's great until you build a roof deck or add a skylight near one and the gas becomes an issue. Enter the air admittance valve. These ingenious devices can be installed on the open end of the vent and stop the escape of sewer gas. They are, in effect, one-way valves allowing air to go in when needed but not out. Look for them in home centers or plumbing supply houses.
Conserving Water
Short showers, infrequent flushing, or turning off the water while brushing your teeth are fine ideas, and we should feel good about water conservation, but these efforts do little. The real water wasters in the house are appliances. Clothes washers and dishwashers are the biggest culprits when it comes to wasting water. The way we use them can make a difference, but these standard appliances were designed when little thought was given to saving water. European models that truly save water have been around awhile, and domestic manufacturers are starting to introduce new models to match them. The drawback, of course, is the price. These newer, more efficient models cost up to twice as much as standard models. The long view is critical when considering highly efficient appliances. Life cycle costs often match or beat the cost of the "cheaper" models. Next time one of your water-hungry appliances gives it up, take a hard look at a more efficient model.
Plumbing Tip
Here's two plumbing tips for the price of one. When working on a sink faucet, regardless of the particular task, the first thing to do is close the drain and cover it with a rag. This will save you from losing parts down the drain when working on the faucet. If you didn't cover the drain before starting work, you will probably find yourself disassembling the drain trap under the sink to retrieve the parts you dropped down the drain. If you have to open the trap, remember to put a small bucket under it to catch the water. Also remember not to empty the bucket in the sink until the drain is reassembled.
Dishwasher Rx
Dishwashers work tirelessly and seldom give us problems, but with a little attention these long-lived appliances can last even longer. Periodically remove the kick plate at the front bottom of the dishwasher and look for water leaks. Catching one early might save a floor repair. While under there, get out the vacuum and clean out the dust, especially around the motor. If the dishes don't seem to be getting as clean as they used to, inspect the spray heads, usually located at the bottom inside the unit. If they appear to have calcium deposits, they are probably plugged up. If you can remove them, soak them in vinegar to dissolve the deposits. Finally check the gasket on the door. If it is getting hard or cracked, a replacement can be found at an appliance parts supply house.
Shims
The value of the shim shouldn't be underestimated. Shims are an essential tool in many areas of construction. They are used to make minor adjustments or take up small spaces. Shims can be either flat or tapered. They can be made of a wide variety of materials -- wood, plastic, and metal are common. Shims are used to level cabinets and casework; equipment and machinery; plumbing fixtures; and furniture. Be sure to consider the demands put on the shim. Often they are put in a structural situation and must be able to carry a load. Wood shingles are commonly used as shims and are often packaged and sold as such. Look for a small plastic wedge at the home center -- they are very useful shims.
Gutter Basics
If you have had trouble keeping gutters on your house, consider these suggestions. Gutters should be fastened every 24 inches. Gutter spikes should be installed in 2x material or through the fascia and into the rafter or truss tails. If better support is required, try replacing the spikes with equivalent-sized lag bolts. Be sure to drill pilot holes for the bolts. If snow and ice are a factor, install the gutters so that the outside top edge of the gutter is no higher than the plane of the roof. Use a framing square or other straightedge to project the roof plane over the gutter.
Strike Zone
If you have ever installed a latch set or deadbolt in a new door, you may have encountered trouble when locating and drilling the hole for the strike plate in the doorjamb. Sure, a template is supplied with the hardware, but it isn't always easy to get an accurate mark. The professionals have boring jigs that take all the guesswork out of it, but they are expensive. Here is a method that works every time. Get a piece of dowel (about 2") that fits snugly in the hole bored for the latch. Locate the center of one end of the dowel and drive a small brad into the dowel at the center, leaving about 1/8" protruding. Now before installing the hardware in the door, close the door, slide the dowel into the latch hole, and push the brad into the jamb. This will mark the center of the hole for the strike plate, insuring proper alignment between the latch and strike.
Pick Up Loose Nails With Magnets
Nails often get away from us when working outside. A good worker always makes a point of keeping up with these nails as they present safety hazard if left behind. There are commercially available magnetic brooms that are often used by roofers, but before you think about buying one, look around your basement or garage. If you have an old stereo loudspeaker, take the magnet off it, put in a trash bag and drag it around the job site. The powerful speaker magnet will pick up those stray nails.
Spackle vs. Mud
Spackle or mud? While both terms refer to finishing drywall, there is a difference. Mud, officially known as joint compound, is intended for taping and finishing drywall. Spackle is primarily used to patch small holes. Spackle is a heavier-bodied compound that would be difficult to use for finishing drywall. Mud is often used to patch drywall, but it shrinks more than spackle and may require a second application.
Rosin Paper
Rosin paper is an old standard in the building trades. The consumer equivalent would be butcher paper. Rosin paper has long been used between subflooring and finish wood flooring to prevent squeaks, but there are a lot everyday uses for this inexpensive paper. Use rosin paper as protection for flooring when work is being done in a room. If the activity will be dusty, cover the whole floor and tape all the edges to keep dust and grit from getting underneath the paper. Use rosin paper when painting a wall to keep the splatter off the floor. Some home centers and most lumberyards stock it.
Foam Caulk
Foam sealant in a can has been around a while and is commonly used to seal cracks and crevices to inhibit air infiltration. Common spray foam in a can is a great product, but it does have its drawbacks. It will degrade when exposed to sunlight and can cause problems with overexpansion. When sealing the gap between a window or door and the adjacent framing member, the foam might overexpand and push the door or window frame out of place, interfering with the operation of the window or door.
Relatively new to the market is a foaming caulk product. This foam stays soft and will not cause the problems associated with overexpanding. It is great for use around windows and doors.
Nailing Shingles
Asphalt or fiberglass shingles are the most commonly used roofing material, and their installation is straightforward. Most manufacturers provide instructions on each bundle of shingles. In spite of the instructions, shingles are often nailed wrong. Four nails are required under normal circumstances: one at each end and one above each slot. You should place the nails in these areas above the slot but below the adhesive tar strip. Many people place the nail in the tar strip. This could interfere with the self-sealing action of the shingle.
Measuring Curves
Measuring curves can be a bit tricky depending on the situation. Steel tape blades are flexible, but they still don't want to go around a curve. A string will work in some situations but can be hard to keep in place at times. Next time you are faced with a difficult curve, try masking tape. It is flexible and stays put. Apply it to the length of the curve desired and then transfer it to a measuring tape or directly to the material.
Roof Leaks
Roofs, our first line of defense against the elements, must be repaired or replaced if they spring leaks, but what about when they are actively leaking? With quick action, a lot of property damage can be avoided by keeping the leak under control. In the best scenario a leak is heard before seen. If you can locate the leak in the attic and get a bucket under it, you've won the battle. If it is running down a rafter and not dripping, nail a small block of wood or tack a string in its path. This should cause it to drip, so you can get your bucket under it. Leaks can be temporarily patched from the underside with roof cement or caulk. If you can't get to the leak but know water is accumulating above the ceiling, drill a small hole in the ceiling and have your bucket ready. Don't use an electric drill for this task! When the skies clear and the leak stops, don't put off a permanent fix.
Toilet Overflow
At least once in life we all get to experience the toilet overflowing. We flush it and then stand there and watch it happen, believing all the time that the water really isn't going to go over the edge. Some quick action can prevent an overflow. When you sense it coming, quickly remove the tank lid and reach down and push the flush valve closed. It covers the tennis ball-sized opening in the bottom of the tank. Emergency over! Now all you have to do is unclog the toilet.
Painting Tip
If you aren't very good at cutting in when painting and you rely on masking tape, you are not alone.The tape allows you to be a little sloppy and end up with a good cut. If you ever used tape to change colors in the middle of a surface or paint up to a naturally finished surface, chances are the line was a little fuzzy. Try this for a sharper cut. After you apply the tape and before you paint, run a small bead of latex caulk along the edge of the tape and then wipe off as much as possible with a damp rag. Now paint. The caulk seals up those tiny gaps that cause the fuzziness. Carefully remove the tape before the paint has dried.
Foam Sealants
Foam sealants have been around long enough that most handy homeowners are aware of them. They are great for sealing up the nooks and crannies around the house that let the wind blow in. Most expand greatly, thus closing up voids that otherwise would be difficult to deal with. This characteristic can also work against you. These foams should not be used around window and door frames as they can expand and warp the frame, thus interfering with proper operation of the window or door. For this application, look for low-expanding foams. These foams expand about 10% and will not interfere with door and window movement.
Drywall Screws
Drywall screws intended for fastening drywall to wood or metal framing members have grown in popularity, but they're sometimes misused. Although they're often sold as utility screws, these screws aren't for use in structural situations, such as hanging cabinets. Drywall screws are light-duty fasteners used in specific combinations to hold drywall to framing members. Most home drywall work involves wood framing, but if you are experimenting with steel studs, be sure and get screws for attaching to metal framing.
Latch Set Trick
Changing a latch set is usually a straightforward task. Most modern-day door hardware requires a 2 1/8" hole. Removing the old latch and installing the new one takes a few minutes, unless the old one required a hole smaller than 2 1/8". Making a small hole bigger can be a very frustrating experience. Try this. Get out a 2 1/8" hole saw and get a piece of wood dowel to match the diameter of the existing smaller hole. Using the pilot bit on the hole saw, drill into the center of one end of the dowel and use it as the pilot for the hole saw. Drilling from both sides of the door only adds a few minutes to the job.
Drywall Sanding
Regardless of how smooth drywall mud is applied, sanding is required -- sometimes a lot of sanding. Conventional dry sanding gets the job done in a hurry but leaves a fine dust everywhere. When dust isn't acceptable, wet sanding is the way to go. Although not as fast as dry sanding -- and not for big jobs, wet sanding with a sponge can yield acceptable results. For better results and still no dust, look for a stiff felt brush made for wet sanding. Stanley Tools markets one called the Felt Blister Brush.
Caulking Basics
Proper caulking can either make or break an otherwise nice job. While caulking is a skill that takes some practice to acquire, mastering the basics is the best place to start. Most caulk comes in tubes and must be applied with a caulking gun. Select a gun that has a thumb release for better control, not the rachet type. Make sure the joint to which the caulk is being applied is clean and dry. Scrape out any old caulk and wipe down the area with rubbing alcohol. Cut the tip off the caulk tube, matching the hole in the nozzle to the size of the crack being filled. Remember, caulk is meant to fill a crack -- it is not a sculpting medium. The best tool for smoothing out a bead of caulk is a wet finger. Be sure to clean up stray caulk before it dries.
Paint Brushes
There are several secrets to a good paint job, and one of them is a good brush. As with many things, good usually means more expensive, but in the bigger picture it is a small percentage of the whole job. What makes a good brush depends on what type of paint and what you're painting. The first choice is natural bristle or synthetic. Natural bristles, commonly called China bristle, are really pig or boar hair and are best suited for oil-based products. A good natural bristle brush holds a lot of paint and leaves a smooth finish. Synthetic bristles are either nylon or polyester and can be used with oil- or water-based paints.
The next question is square or angled cut? Square cut brushes are best for mostly flat work, while angle cut (sash) brushes have an advantage when it comes to windows, trim, and cutting in. The most important thing to remember is that you can't get a good paint job out of a cheap brush!
Water Heater Upgrade
Most people don't think about their water heater -- until it breaks. They just call the plumber when it quits and get another one. With a little foresight, those calls to the plumber could be much less frequent. Sediment is one of the main enemies of the tank, and it builds up quickly in some areas. Here are two tank upgrades that can help fight sediment build-up and extend the life of the heater.
-A curved dip tube can keep the sediment in suspension so that it doesn't settle. The dip tube directs the incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank. Some newer tanks come with this feature, but replacing a dip tube is usually not difficult.
-Flushing the tank will help remove sediment. Unfortunately the drain valve on most tanks is inadequate for proper flushing. Replacing the valve with a 3/4" ball valve will facilitate proper flushing. Just be sure you flush the tank every 6 to 12 months.The best time to make these upgrades is when the tank is installed. As water heaters age, these upgrades become more difficult because of accumulated corrosion.
Shingles
Three tab asphalt or fiberglass shingles are by far the most common roofing material in use today. They come in different grades, with warranties ranging from 20 to 30 years. In the past ten years a newcomer has gained prominence in the roofing market. Still an asphalt shingle, this laminated version offers some advantages over the standard. Laminated layers give these shingles a pleasing dimensional look that can replicate wood or slate. In addition to new aesthetics, they offer longer life than the three tab. Warranties range from 30 years to lifetime with some manufacturers. There is more up-front expense, but in the long run they have a lot to offer.
Masking Tape
Here is a painting tip that might save a novice painter a lot of frustration. Typically, homeowner painters mask off areas that they don't want get paint on, such as windows, baseboards and molding. Don't use regular masking tape! These tapes are too sticky, and the adhesive is quickly transferred to the window or woodwork. If left on more than a day or so, the biggest part of the paint job will be removing the tape. Look for painter's tape at the local hardware or home center. This tape is made specifically for painting. The paper is heavier and the adhesive less sticky. This tape costs more, but if you've ever had to remove stubborn masking tape you'll be glad to pay for painter's tape.
Fishing Tip
Fishing wires, that is! If you have ever tried to fish a wire down through a wall, you know what a frustrating experience it can be. Often a line of sight can be established, but trying to get the wire from point A to point B seems impossible. Next time you want to "fish," try using a length of sash chain. This flat-link chain is used to attach the window sash to the sash weights. Because of it weight and flexibility, it can be easily dropped down through a wall and used to pull or "fish" the wire back up. Buy a 10- or 12-foot length at your local hardware store and keep it handy for those simple electrical projects.
Pop Rivets
If you aren't familiar with the "pop rivet," it's a great fastener. Pop rivets are quick-and-handy light- to medium-duty fasteners. Most commonly used to fasten thin materials or sheet goods together, the pop rivet provides permanent fastening with ease. Pop rivets are used frequently to fasten gutters to down spouts and suspended ceiling tracks together. Rivets are commonly available in steel and aluminum and are colored to match the application. To use a pop rivet, drill a hole through both pieces being fastened, insert the rivet through the hole, attach the rivet tool to the rivet and squeeze the handle until it pops. Although considered a permanent fastener, the rivets can be drilled out if necessary.
Sound Proof Walls
Soundproofing a wall can be accomplished several different ways. If the wall has no door or window openings, doubling the drywall on both sides will cut down on noise transmission. The next step is applying a soundboard such as Homosote either over existing drywall of under a new layer on one or both sides. After that would be to blow insulation into an existing wall in addition to the above-mentioned methods. If the all is new construction, use 2x6 top and bottom plates with 2x4 studs alternately set to one side of the plate or the other. Insulate the wall with sound batts and add soundboard and drywall. Any or all of these methods will offer soundproofing to different degrees.
Fuse Boxes
Many older homes have fuses and fuse boxes. While considered antiquated by today's standards, a fuse box may still be serviceable, depending on the electrical demands of the house. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician. Fuses are the weak link in the circuit and will burn out if an unsafe amount of current passes through them.
When a fuse blows, it must be replaced. Standard fuses are interchangeable, and any size fuse will fit in any socket. However, replacing a fuse with one of a higher capacity is dangerous! Type "S" fuses prohibit this practice. A larger fuse will not fit in a smaller fuse's socket. Type "S" fuses make a smart safety upgrade to a fuse box. Circuit breaker-type fuses are also available. These fuses can be reset rather than replaced. If a fuse blows, determine why before replacing it. If fuses are blowing regularly, consult an electrician. It may be time for an upgrade.
Rustproof Fasteners
Choosing fasteners for an outside installation such as a deck demands some consideration. Screws are fast becoming the preferred method for fastening deck boards, and the selection ranges from stainless steel to polymer coated. Stainless steel fasteners will last the life of any building, but cost makes them prohibitive. They are used mainly in coastal areas and high-end construction. Galvanized fasteners are zinc coated and the most commonl used type. Coating methods vary, top-quality galvanized fasteners will last 10 to 15 years. Polymer and paint coated screws are now widely available and claim the longevity of stainles steel at a cost closer to galvanized. As a new product, these fasteners have yet to establish a track record.
Be forewarned -- Common steel fasteners will quickly rust, leaving stains, and will eventually corrode away completely.
Green Board
Moisture-resistant drywall, often called "green board" because of its color, is a commonly misunderstood product. As its name implies, this product is not waterproof but moisture resistant. It's meant to be used in areas with high humidity, such as bathrooms and laundry rooms. Though it's common in some areas, many manufacturers don't recommend using green board behind the tile surround in a tub or shower enclosure. If water gets past the tile the green board backer will quickly deteriorate.
Green board can be hung on ceilings. Manufacturers recommend 5/8" board over joists or rafters on 16" centers.
Extension Cord Care
Extension cords are a fact of life when using power tools. When cords aren't used and cared for properly, they can become a nuisance and a safety hazard.
Safety being the first concern, make sure the cord is a grounded type and the ground prong is intact. As previously discussed, make sure the cord can carry the current required by the tool or equipment being used. To keep the nuisance factor to a minimum, take proper care of your cords. Wiping down a cord with a WD40-type product helps clean, condition, and expel moisture form the cord. When rolling up cords for storage, let them loop naturally in the hand. Winding a cord over the shoulder or forearm will guarantee a tangled cord.
Tar Paper
Just about everybody seems to know what tar paper is, but let's take a closer look. Tar paper, black paper, builder's paper, or asphalt felt has been used for decades. Cardboard and wood chips are formed into felt and saturated with asphalt. Traditionally asphalt felt came in 15- and 30-lb designations. Asphalt felt has long been used to dry-in a roof as an underlayment for shingles. Felt additionally has been used between exterior sheathing and finish siding as a moisture barrier. Likewise felt can be used as a flashing material behind corner boards and at laps and seams. Don't short-change this tried-and-true building material -- it is economical and durable.
Deck Tip
Adding a deck to a house is a manageable project for homeowners with basic carpentry skills. One pitfall the amateur encounters involves attaching the deck to the house. The best-case scenario has a freestanding deck that is from the house. This method is the most material- and labor-intensive. The worst-case scenario has a ledger board bolted or nailed directly against the house. This method will be the quickest and easiest and will guarantee moisture decay between the house and ledger. Builders use several techniques to keep the ledger away from but still attached to the house. Slim wedges, washers and special hardware are all employed to provide a gap between the house and deck structure, insuring that water will not collect there. Also be sure your fasteners are securely anchored to the house framing.
Broken Ceramic Tile
Here's a quick and easy way to fix a cracked tile.
Tools needed:
-a small punch
-ceramic tile in appropriate size
-hammer
-mastic or glue
-safety glasses
-1 inch putty knife
-grout
First, always wear your safety glasses. Take the punch and hammer to break the bad tile just enough to get the putty knife underneath it, so you can lift it out. Clean out all of the tile and tile mastic. Use the 1 inch putty knife to put the mastic on the new tile and press into place, making sure it is level with surrounding tile. When dry, mix grout and finish off.
Fixing a Sticking Door
In humid weather a door will swell up and stick due to moisture in the air. To remedy this problem, make sure that your door edges and door jams are sealed very well. You can seal a door with a good-quality paint or polyurethane; they both work well. A sealant helps keep humidity and moisture from causing the door to swell. Also, check to make sure the screws and the door hinges are all tight. Doing so will make your door function more smoothly. That should fix any problems you might encounter with sticking doors.
Repairing a Hole in Drywall
Have you ever opened a door and knocked a hole in your wall with the doorknob? If so, here is a quick fix. First, you will need: a piece of drywall, drywall compound, a small piece of flat wood, drywall tape, a drill and screws.
Drill one screw into the center of the wood and insert the wood into the hole, holding onto the screw. Drill screws on each side of the wood through the drywall. Take the center screw out and insert the piece of drywall into the hole. Tape around the piece of the drywall and finish off with compound. After the compound is dry, sand and paint the wall as necessary. That's all there is to it.
Hanging Ceiling Fans
Hanging a ceiling fan in the place of an existing light fixture is a straightforward job that most folks with average skills can handle. First of all, turn off the electricity. Then take the light fixture down. Before proceeding with the fan installation, make sure the ceiling box is adequate. Fans weigh more than most light fixtures, and not all ceiling boxes will support the added weight. A metal box mounted to wood framework is best. Plastic boxes are generally not strong enough. If you are unsure, check your local home center or electrical supply house for retrofit hardware made especially for this purpose. If you're at all unsure, don't mess with electricity--call a pro.
Removing Toilets
Toilets must be pulled for many reasons, but the procedure is always the same. Shut off the water, drain the tank and bowl, remove the tank and remove the bowl. This is very straightforward, except when you encounter corroded bolts. More often than not the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor will be corroded. Typically the nuts become one with the bolts and the whole assembly turns when trying to remove the nuts. Here is the solution. Clamp a pair of locking pliers on the top of the bolt and use a hacksaw blade to cut through the bolt just below the nut and washer. The bolts are usually brass and easy to cut. To use a hacksaw blade without the frame, wrap tape around one end of the blade to make a handle.
Basin Wrench
Replacing a kitchen or bathroom faucet is a common homeowners' task, but sometimes the logistics make this a tough job. Getting to the faucet underneath the sink is hard enough, but getting a wrench on the nuts is often impossible. Installing the faucet on the sink before installing the sink in the counter top is the easiest route, but this is seldom the case when replacing an existing faucet. The answer is a basin wrench. This hard-to-describe tool is made just for this task. Available at hardware stores, homes centers and supply houses, the basin wrench will take a lot of frustration out of replacing a faucet.
Rubbing Alcohol
When caulking, sealing, or gluing surfaces such as glass, ceramic, plastic laminate, and other composition materials, the biggest challenge is getting things clean. Caulks, sealants and glues will not stick properly to oily residue or dirty films. Clean up as usual -- wipe both surfaces down with rubbing alcohol before applying the sealant. Rubbing alcohol will cut any films or residues and evaporate quickly, leaving a perfectly clean surface ready for joining.
Drilling Joists
Occasionally home repair projects require pipes and wires to run in joist spaces Installations running parallel to and in between joists are straightforward, but what about running pipes and wires through joists? Drilling holes in joists to accommodate pipes and wires is allowable as long as you don't alter the structural integrity of the joists. Follow these basic guidelines to avoid structural problems. Holes should be no closer than two inches from the top or bottom of the joist. Holes should be no closer to each other than two inches. The hole's diameter should not exceed 1/3rd the depth of the joist.
Missed Nails
Nails that miss their mark should always be pulled. When nailing off sheathing on roofing, walls or floors, occasionally a nail misses the framing member. These missed nails may seem innocent enough, but they can cause problems in the future. As temperature and humidity change over time, missed nails can slowly work their way back out of the wood. On roofs this is evidenced by bumps or raised shingles. On sidewalls, missed nails can open up cracks that let the weather in. On floors, excessive wear and early failure can come from nails pushing up on sheet goods. Take the time to check under the decking and sheathing for nails that missed their mark and remove them. Be sure to replace these nails with nails that are correctly fastened.
Polyurethane Caulk
Consider polyurethane caulk the next time you need a high-performance product like silicone. Polyurethane has been around for a long time, but it is relatively new to the residential market. Polyurethane has some advantages over silicone. It is less expensive, adheres better, and can be painted. Silicone is more flexible and more resistant to sunlight and is clear. While manufacturers claim a 50-year lifetime for both products, it's unlikely in real-world applications.
Chimney Concerns
When replacing gas appliances such as furnaces and water heater, there may be chimney concerns to address. New appliances are usually more efficient than the ones they replace. Higher efficiency results in cooler exhaust gases going up the chimney. These cooler gasses may condense before leaving the top of the chimney. The condensate forms acidic compounds, which may damage the chimney. Often masonry chimneys will need to be lined with a metal flue appropriate for the new appliance. Another situation is created when a new furnace is not vented through the old chimney and a water heater remains. The chimney may be too large for the water heater and not vent properly. If you attempt to upgrade your appliances, be sure you understand the issues involved with correct venting. Your life could depend on it!
Garage Door Openers
If you have an overhead garage door with a garage door opener, there may be built-in safety features that need occasional attention. Down-force sensitivity functions stop the closing door if something gets in its way. To test this function, place a piece of 2x4 on the floor and let the door close against it. The door should stop and reverse itself. Next test the sensitivity by hand. Stand in the center of the door as it is closing and stop it by hand. Determine if the force would injure a child or pet if they got in the way of the closing door. Adjustments to the sensitivity can be made on the door opener. There should also be a reversing sensor mounted near the track bottom on both sides. This sensor senses the presence of something in the way of the closing door and reverses the door. Test this by holding a hand in front of the sensor as the door is closing. The door should reverse. If not, clean the sensor or realign the two opposite parts.
Paint Primers
Painting and priming are often confused. Many folks don't see the need for priming as long as two coats of paint are being applied. Painting and priming are two different parts of a good overall paint job. Primers are chemically different than paints and perform a different task. Priming seals a surface and makes it ready to receive the paint. Painting is the process of coating a surface with a protective film. Painting is also a decorative process. Selecting the proper primer is important to the success of the job. Interior wallboard is best primed with a latex product. Interior woodwork is best primed with an oil-based product. Exterior jobs usually require a latex primer. Always consult the product literature if in doubt.
Pipe Clamp Trick
Pipe clamps find many uses around the shop or house when things need to be drawn together. They consist of three parts-- the pipe, the screw end, and the tail stop. With a little repositioning, the pipe clamp can be used to spread things apart as well. Remove the tail stop and slide it back on backwards. Next tighten the screw end all the way. Now the clamp can be positioned between boards or objects. As the screw end is loosened, it will spread apart.
Socket Tip
Socket wrench, that is. Sometimes when working with nuts, bolts, and sockets, the socket won't hold onto the bolt or nut. It is helpful at times to have the socket hold the nut or bolt for positioning. If you find yourself in this situation, try slipping a piece of cloth over the nut or bolt head before insertion into the socket. Sometimes a piece of paper will work as well. This method will also work at times with and end wrench and a worn nut or bolt.
Smoke Detector Maintenance
Smoke detectors have become commonplace in most residences and are required by law in many jurisdictions. Regardless of the power source, battery or AC, smoke detectors should not be ignored. Batteries should be replaced yearly. Periodic maintenance is required. Test smoke detectors monthly by pushing the test button. All though hard to find, canned smoke is available to simulate real conditions for testing. Periodically vacuum smoke detectors as dust buildup can impair their function. Finally, their lifespan is about ten years. Don't trust your life to a smoke detector that has not been maintained or is beyond its functional life.
Ice Maker Hookup
Adding an icemaker to a refrigerator doesn't have to mean a visit from a service technician. If your refrigerator is icemaker-ready, the installation and hookup are easy. The project will require the purchase of the icemaker and a hookup kit. Install the icemaker following the instructions provided. Hookup kits come with copper tube or plastic tube. The plastic tube is easier to route to the refrigerator, but many feel the copper is less prone to leaks. Regardless of type selected, be sure to use compression fittings appropriate to the type of tube used. Do not use copper compression sleeves on plastic tube. The supply tube is easily connected to the refrigerator and then routed to a cold-water pipe. A saddle valve clamps around the water pipe and pierces its own hole in copper pipe. If the water pipe is galvanized, the water must be turned off and a hole drilled in the pipe before the saddle valve in installed. For the best long-term performance, install a filter in the icemaker supply line.
Soldering Copper Tubing
Soldering or "sweating" copper tubing is straightforward and easy. If you've had trouble with it, this tip may help. All connections must be clean. Wire brush the inside of fittings and use fine emery to clean the outside of the tube. Shiny bright is the objective. Don't touch the cleaned parts with your fingers. Apply flux to the cleaned surfaces with a clean flux brush, and assemble the parts. Apply heat with a torch. Allow the tube and fitting to become hot enough to melt the solder. Apply solder to the connection opposite the heat. The solder should flow into the joint. Remove the heat and run the solder around the joint. When soldering a 1/2 in. tube about 1/2 in. of solder is all that's needed.
Photoelectric Controls
Photoelectric controls have been used for many years and are common around the house. A photoelectric control is simply an on/off switch activated by light. Pole lights and landscape lights are typically controlled by photoelectric switches. If an outside light stops working, it may be the photoelectric control. To test a photoelectric control during the day, locate the control (usually mounted on the light) and cover the sensor (a small lens). The controls have a built-in delay, so wait 30 to 60 seconds and the light should come on. If you know the bulb is good and the power is on, then the sensor is bad. Some sensors are plug-in modules, while others are wired in. Most hardware stores and home centers stock replacements. When possible, take the old one with you, as there are many to choose from. If you need to adjust the time of day the light comes on and off, look for a small shutter that can be positioned over the lens. Covering more of the lens increases the amount of light required to turn the fixture on.
Noisy Fans
When shopping for a bath or kitchen exhaust fan, several things must be taken into consideration, such as the size and location of the area to be ventilated. What about noise? Unfortunately, fans produce noise when used. And the fact is, noisy fans don't get used much. Look for the sone rating when selecting an exhaust fan. The rating is based on a linear scaleThe lower the sone rating, the quieter the fan. A two-sone fan is twice as loud as a one-sone fan. As a point of reference, a quiet refrigerator produces about one sone when running. Generally, the quieter the fan, the higher the price, but remember, a cheap fan that doesn't get used is a complete waste of time and money.
Deck Protection
Many people have the idea that "treated lumber" commonly used for deck construction needs no protection from the elements. The treatment protects the wood from insects and mold but not from the weather. The main enemy is the sunlight. Ultraviolet radiation slowly deteriorates the wood. There are various coatings that can keep decks in top shape.Transparent coatings are common and allow the natural wood to show. They should be renewed yearly. Semi-transparent and pigmented coatings offer a little more protection and give some color to the deck. They should be renewed every two or three years. Painting offers good protection but shows wear faster than other coatings. Beware of manufacturer claims--they assume ideal conditions. Be sure the product you choose blocks ultraviolet.